Whalesong and Cape Leveque 5th to 9th August 2014

The road up into Cape Leveque and Whalesong

The view from our camp at Whalesong

Our camp set up at Whalesong

The shower at Whalesong

Shower at Whalesong

Camp kitchen at Whalesong

Toilet at Whalesong

Signage for the toilet and shower that let's you know it is Free

Signage used for the toilet and shower that let's you know it is In Use.

Kids at Kooljaman

Non swimming beach at Kooljaman due to the strong currents

Swimming beach at Kooljaman

Some fish at the Hatchery at One Arm Point

Can you find the fish? Hatchery at One Arm Point

Swimming at Kooljaman

Beach at Whalesong

Beach at Whalesong

Beach at Whalesong with the tide out

Collecting shells on the beach at Whalesong

Dugong carcuss on the Whalesong beach (only a week old)

Nude swim at Whalesong

Catching up on diaries and school work at camp. (Fractions were getting to Jacob!)

Our camp from down on the beach at Whalesong

View from the Cafe at Whalesong

Lou and her Mango Crush

Jacob and his Mango Crush

Hannah and her Banana Smoothie

Well after a rushed trip from Derby to Broome, a quick grocery shop and drop mum off at her accommodation we started our trip up onto Cape Leveque. This was something we had really been looking forward to so were hoping it wouldn't disappoint.
We again hit the red corrugated roads (this time there was only just under 100km of it). Once we hit the bitumen we had about 40km before the red sand and corrugations again for the final 30km. We finally arrived at Whalesong at about 4pm so not long to get set up and organise tea before dark.
The first night it was that windy we thought we were going to be blown off the cliffs (but we weren't). We had given the kids the choice as we were here for 4 nights and 3 days when we would be in the car and drive to the tip of the Cape. The chose to do this the first day and then have 2 days to kick back and chill a little without getting in the car at all.
The drive involved travelling a mixture of bitumen and the red corrugated dirt.
Kooljaman was our first stop. This was just amazing. You get out of the car to see RED cliffs, WHITE sand and of course this contrasting with the BLUE sky it was magnificent. We had to pay a day visitors pass before exploring the area. We visited the lighthouse, the kids had a swim (albeit rocky and very fine sand that went through everything! ). We ventured back to the main building and sat on the lawns watching the view while we had our lunch.
Next stop was One Arm Point. This is an Aboriginal community just like Kalumburu. Here we visited the local Hatchery. The kids enjoyed trying to find all the different fish and marine life in the different tanks.
The Hatchery is a working aquaculture centre where fish, Trochus and other marine life are bred and released back into nature. The community use the Trochus shells and polish them up and even cut them to make jewellery. The hatchery is surrounded by water where you can see King Tidal currents rushing by at 12 to 14 knots and with tidal varients up to 11 metres.

We had run out of time so headed back to camp. We were stopped at some roadworks and asked where we were headed as the road to Broome had been closed due to fires. We were lucky enough to get where we needed to go but there were others that had to decide what they were going to do since they couldn't get back to Broome. 

The next 2 days at Whalesong were spent walking and exploring the beaches in the morning. On our walks we discoved a Dugong skeleton and carcass that had little hermit crabs feeding on it, we found a sea star and of course some different birds and lots of shells. The water was a little murky because of the wind, although it had started to clear by the time we were heading off.

After our walks we would head back to camp have some lunch and kids would catch up on diaries and some school work which was followed by a trip to the cafe. The cafe was run by the owners and all local products and ingredients and all the nice goodies made by them. It was of course open to everyone not just those camping at Whalesong. Every day they were busy with there being one day where we struggled to find a free table. The kids (Jacob and Louise) loved the mango crushes, while Hannah enjoyed her banana smoothie and iced chocolate. The views from the cafe were just as spectacular as the ones from our camp. 

The kids had a swim on the second day both in bathers and not. With them having a nude swim on our walk the second day as it had become quite warm and we of course hadn't planned for the kids to be swimming. So Strick gave them the option if they wanted to they could swim and of course our cherubs took every chance they could to have a swim.

The campground at Whalesong was slightly different than the other camps as it had an outdoor toilet and shower with no doors and only signs that you turned that said whether it was 'In Use' our 'Free'. They were of course solar powered and best at about 3pm as Strick discovered after trying them one morning. 

Whalesong was a fantastic spot and was very relaxing for the 4 nights with a fire including a camp roast (more successful than the first on this trip). The kids enjoyed it and it was a struggle to leave although it was time to move on to another adventure in another town.

Derby 3rd and 4th August 2014

We left Windjana Gorge and headed for Derby to have the long awaited shock absorber fixed. The plan was to only be here for the one night and then move onto Broome to stock up before heading to Cape Leveque. This wasn't to be as you will discover. So we had two night in Derby. Once we had set up camp and had showers (it certainly does help you feel more human when you haven't had a shower few a few days) we went for a drive to have a look at what Derby had to offer. 

First stop was the Derby Jetty. The tide was out for this visit and it was interesting watching some of the people fish for mud crabs. There was a lady who had also been on one of our cruises at Fitzroy Crossing and had recognised the kids was talking to us and showing the kids how they catch the mud crabs.

Derby has Australia's highest tides, with tidal variation being as much as 11 metres.
The Jetty or Wharf is as we found a popular place to view the sunset and to of course eat some of the best fish (barra) and chips we have tasted yet. The kids thought the smoothies were pretty good too. There were lots of people who joined us on the jetty to view the sunset (people with tables and chairs, guitars were playing) and were fishing for mud crabs. It was a very pleasant evening.
We also visited the old Derby Gaol. This gave you quite a somber feel with the gaol being used mainly for the Aboriginal people who were waiting to be sentenced or front court. They were chained around their necks and then chained to the concrete floor.
Monday morning Strick had to have the car to the workshop by 7.30am. Once he returned we went for a walk around the town via the post office and visitors centre to get some information about Broome and down the coast. We were also able to read up on the area. Jacob fascinated with the map that was on the wall and he worked out where we had been and were going to next.

The Derby street is aligned with Boab trees. In the Derby shire Boab trees are a protected species so they aren't allowed to be removed. If someone wants to build anything where a Boab tree is they must go around it or incorporate it some how.
We also visited an amazing gallery that had a large number of different photos portraying different aspects of the Kimberly's. The girls purchased 2 small block photos of boab trees and Jacob a blue winged kookaburra, we also purchased a picture with some Boab trees and some old holden cars. 

We went back to camp and had lunch (that we had to buy because we left the lunch tub in the car) and pack up camp as we had been told the car would be ready at about 1. While Strick and I sat with our gear (as Strick had left keys including the spare set in the car) mum took the kids to the local pool to swim for the afternoon. The plan was we would pick kids and mum up as we were leaving town. Strick made the phone call and they said it hadn't even been touched (this was 1pm) and it would be more like 3pm. We had to pay for a half day at the park as we were after 1 and we were taking up a site that they couldn't use (which was fair enough and lucky in the end). It was warm sitting around on all our bags with no shelter and fighting with the ants that also wanted the space. It got to 3pm and Strick walked the 2km back out to the workshop. While he was doing this I rang Broome to let them know we were still coming only to have to ring them back to say sorry but the car can't be fixed and we weren't leaving Derby today. This was about 5pm we found this out. So we paid for another night at Derby and had to settle with what we had in our boxes for tea (as we had no car we hadn't had a chance to do our stock up as we were planning to be in Broome).
Our plans now up in the air depending on the car we just had to wait and see what tomorrow would bring.
Tuesday morning arrived and we were up and packed up once again with the hope that we weren't going to have to set up again in the same spot without moving for a second time. Well 8.30 we got the phone call we were anxiously waiting for the car was half fixed. The new shock absorbers and springs had been put on the back but the old front had been put back on. We were able to move on (which was the main thing). So this meant packing up getting to Broome to stock up and drop mum off before heading out to Whalesong on Cape Leveque.
On our way out of Derby we visited the Boab Gaol where they used to hold the prisoners until they were ready to go into town. Unfortunately it is now fenced off as I can remember back in 1982 being able to get inside the tree. We also saw the longest trough. The kids pretended to drink out of it and while doing this I upended Jacob and put his head in the water. It was rather cold. A fun and relaxed way to finish our time in Derby anyway.

On the Derby Jetty

Derby Gaol

Derby Jetty

Sunset at the Derby Jetty

Boab Gaol

Kids pretending to drink from the longest trough

Kids hugging one of the boab trees that line the Derby street

Sunset from Derby Jetty

Eating the great fish and chips on the Derby Jetty at Sunset

Nan with the kids at the Derby Jetty at Sunset

Trying to get Jacob's head wet in the longest trough

Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge 1st and 2nd August 2014

We left Fitzroy Crossing the morning of August 1st and headed for Windjana Gorge. It was only 140km although it was on red dirt with corrugations. Along the way we stopped at Tunnel Creek, a cave system that could be explored as long as you were prepared to get your feet wet and use a torch to help you find your way.

It didn't take long before we all got wet feet, Strick and the kids prolonging the inevitable climbing over big boulders while mum and I just went through the water to begin with. It was an amazing site with the stalactites, bats and a big dark cave system. We walked to the end to find the creek open up into some great scenery. Poor Hannah walking through the water in the cave had the water come up to her bottom so not only did she have wet feet, but also wet pants as well (lucky it was warm enough that they didn't take long to dry). It was a warm day, so the water and the caves were a nice place to be.

When we came out of the walk we took off our soggy socks and shoes and replaced them with the good old thongs once again. We were only 30km from Windjana Gorge so decided to move on and have lunch when we got there.

That 30km though took us about an hour with the state of the road being similar to that going up to Kalumburu.

Once set up kids had time to up date their diaries and have some chill time and attempt to stay out of the heat.

Saturday we ventured into Windjana Gorge to complete the 7km walk into the Gorge. Again due to the heat we left early so that we could try and beat the heat. It was a walk that was along a dry, sandy river bed along with along the bank of the river. We didn't have to walk far before seeing crocs. The Ranger had told us there were over 100 croc in the Gorge system at present. The kids counted about 30 in the first pool of water. At the beginning of the walk there were a few information signs and the kids found a fossil of a fish in the rock wall. The walk was comfortable while in the shade, but as soon as you ventured into the sun it was quite warm. Hannah was wilting (this was a good test to decide whether we were going back to Mitchell Falls or not as if we did Hannah would have to go in and out as we had no one to fly out with her). The path kept disappearing and we would find it again. We ended up walking for about 2 hours with no success of reaching the end (I don't think we were far away but we still had to walk back). 

On the way back Hannah seemed to get a second wind and even though we thought she was tired it was her that found a snake on the path. It was what we believe to be an orange python. She did well with not panicking and bought it to my attention and we waited for it to move away. Talking the Ranger later we found out there was another one in the same area and one back in the camp area. 

We got back from our walk about 12pm (it only took us an hour to walk out after 2 hours in). We were all hot and exhausted. Cool showers were on the agenda and that is what we did and tried to stay out of the heat. Jacob I think had about 3 showers for the afternoon as he was warm. I made a cake on the stove top in my saute pan for afternoon tea (that didn't last past this point). We just waited then for the sun to go down for some relief from the heat (it was probably our first day where the heat had got to us) Strick and mum had 4 beers between them so they were rationed out while we watched our entertainment for the afternoon of people coming into the park and setting up their camps (it is interesting how different people like their set ups and the different set up that are around).

Although the camp ground is in a National Park and is a cheap camp the facilities are great with flushing toilets and solar heated showers. 

Sunday was back into Derby to get the car fixed on Monday.

Looking back at the opening of Tunnel Creek

 At the beginning of Tunnel Creek

 Tunnel Creek

 Inside Tunnel Creek

 One of the stalactites 

 Kids dancing in Tunnel Creek

 They found an island in Tunnel Creek

Sitting and resting at the other end of the Tunnel and cave system

Wading through one of the many water crossings in Tunnel Creek

Beginning of Windjana Gorge

 Can you find the fish fossil in the rock?

 Windjana Gorge

 Windjana Gorge

 Windjana Gorge

 Windjana Gorge

 Having a drink break in Windjana Gorge

Sunset outside the Gorge (from the campground)

Fitzroy Crossing 29th July to 1st August

3 nights planned for here with not much on the agenda. Geikie Gorge was the one thing I wanted to do, as I remember doing this back in 1982 when I was here with my mum and dad.
We did an early morning trip on our second day in Fitzroy Crossing. Even at 8am the sun was quite warm. The boat was an open boat with no roof. We saw 16 freshwater crocs according to Hannah's count. There is only freshwater crocs in this Gorge although they said the salty is making its way back into the Gorge. It was an hour trip and again we were lucky enough to have a great guide. During the wet season the signs of where the water gets to is quite extraordinary. The kids enjoyed themselves but we have discovered any trips longer than an hour Hannah starts to fidget and get a bit bored.
The rest of our time at Fitzroy Crossing was spent catching up on washing (unfortunately this doesn't seem to stop while on holidays), swimming, having morning tea, swimming, drinking and chilling. We did find the caravan park's bar and restaurant was worth a visit each afternoon especially when the beer supplies were running low and you are unable to purchase full strength takeaway in Fitzroy Crossing without paying the earth (there was another gentleman who paid $57 for a slab of Hahn Light). This was much needed as we had been all go from Kalumburu to Derby to find out about the car. It was also quite warm during the day (34 degrees) so not doing much or doing things in the morning was more acceptable to the kids.

 Wall closer to the water in Geikie Gorge

 Geikie Gorge

 Not a great photo, but these are birds nests under the wall made of clay

 Kicking back and relaxing on the boat cruise

 Geikie Gorge

 Can you spot the face on the wall?

 Geikie Gorge (love the reflections)